Doina Ciobanu at a launch party in London. Photograph: David Benett
Ive always been fascinated by the journalists I watch at way week. I like how serious they appear. They are in their own world, while Im talking to my followers on my two telephones. Were both working, but I feel like Im probably having more fun. I love print journalism; I love to feel a publication in my hands; I know some people think its irrelevant these days, but I really hope that is not the case.
The Guardians way team asked me to make like a journalist and wear one simple attire, rather than get changed between the proves. That was a liberation: no desperate rushing to find somewhere to change. I even had time to buy a coffee.
At the Julien Macdonald present, it felt really strange to be taking notes, rather than paintings. Its such a tight space on the front row that a notebook and pen were useless. As soon as the clapping had finished, I rushed backstage, as instructed, to grab a quotation. Macdonald was friendly, but I was in a crush of other journalists, everyone is muscling in, trying to congratulate him or ask questions. I had to manage all that, and say something intelligent, and take notes, too. Its very different from session a designer as an influencer, when Ill kiss them on the cheek and say, I love your clothes, and theyll say, You look beautiful, and thats it.
I wrote the review on my phone, while walking down the street between proves. It was stressful. Im used to writing one thing speedily on Instagram; I dont need to give that a lot of think. But a lot of people are going to read this, and theres an additional layer of stress that comes from knowing that its the Guardian.
My next assigning, an Emilia Wickstead report, was harder. We were short of time, so I didnt go backstage to speak to her and had to come up with an analysis on my own. It was the end of the day, I was hungry, I was tired, my brain wasnt running. I started writing the piece on the way home; the deadline seemed impossibly soon and I was anxious to make it good.
I examined political science and history, so I love understanding the cause of events. Being a journalist for a day “ve given me” a chance to flex those analytic muscles; as an influencer, you simply look at what seems good on people, what you think people would like. Id love to use my brain more in that way in the future, by getting more involved in activism, employing my following for good. But I wouldnt has become a journalist. Im an independent spirit. Usually, when Im working, Im the brand. As a journalist, its not about you.
Doinas Julien Macdonald review
All hail female empowerment. Or so indicated designer Julien Macdonald backstage after successfully debuting his autumn/ wintertime 2017 collecting.
Female empowerment, feminism and their ilk are the terms du jour for the way set right now. New York fashion week gave collecting after collecting where womens rights were the focus. But where New Yorks decorators offered up feminism in the guise of slogan tees and underwear surely destined for renown as a hashtag, Macdonald construed it through his notion of a future where technology has such an effect on fashion that clothes are create on demand, tailored to the shape of every individual woman.
For Macdonald that is, of course, a particular style of garb and a particular type of woman. One empowered, one confident. If feminism is a thread that runs through Macdonalds winter 2017 collecting, its the same feminism that the likes of Emily Ratajkowski can be found celebrating: that a woman can express herself and her person at a time of her prefer, Laura Mulveys male gaze be damned. Appropriate, then, that Ratajkowski has done much justice to Macdonalds designs before now.
Macdonald does a style and he does it well. His hallmark spiderweb garments are still to be found, but increasingly with straighter lines and alongside garbs offering a sleeker and more futuristic vision. Macdonald told him that his inspiration was modern architecture, big cities[ and] the metropolis. His autumn/ wintertime 2017 may be inspired by a future landscape, but theres also an air of the imagined future that the likes of Fritz Lang once find for us. Nostalgia, the current, and the future always go hand in hand.